In July 2023, my husband Theo Edmonds and I spent 2 weeks in Ireland, arriving and departing from Dublin. We rented a car at the Dublin airport, and drove to Wesport for a few days before heading to Clifden and back to Dublin.
In Ireland, you drive on the left-hand side of the street, pair that with how narrow many of the roads are, and it was a bit stressful, especially the first day driving for multiple hours across Ireland after our flights! By the sixth day I was far more comfortable, just in time to drop off the car (scratch-free I might add) at the aiport before a week in Dublin.
Below are highlights from the trip including specific explorations, meals, and places we visited.
Achill Head and Keem Beach
Just over an hour drive from Wesport, Achill Head is the most western part of Ireland, and the Cliffs of Croaghaun are the highest cliffs in Ireland. We parked at Keem Beach, where parts of the movie The Banshees of Inisherin was filmed, and hiked up the cliffs for breathtaking views. There are sheep roaming all over the island and cliffs which enhanced the experience even more. Absolutely worth the drive!
Croagh Patrick Heritage Trail and Pilgrimage Path (Westport)
Our Airbnb outside Wesport was a few kilometers from Croagh Patrick, which is considered Ireland’s holy mountain. For my run/hike, I covered a total of 14 miles, including part of the Skelp trail, Croagh Patrick Heritage Trail that went through multiple miles of wet meadows inhabited by flocks of sheep, and up the mountain to the church at the peak. There was a cloud resting on the peak, and going up into it felt like I went into another realm, before making the trip back. If you do the Heritage Trail, be prepared for very wet shoes as its quite marshy. Overall, great experience and way to see the countryside from different vantage points.
Connemara
We drove from Westport to Connemara and stayed near Clifden. We visited Killary Fjord, Kylemore Abbey, 12 Pines Island, and the Connemara National Park.
Connemara was the home for many years to John O’Donohue, a favorite poet of ours, whose work - including poetry and writing- leaves a “legacy that directs our search for intimacy to crucial thresholds: tradition and modernity, past and future, life and death, the visible and the invisible world. At the heart of John's awakened beliefs was the premise that ancient wisdom could offer desperately needed nourishment for the spiritual hunger experienced in our modern world.”
FOR A NEW BEGINNING
In out-of-the-way places of the heart,
Where your thoughts never think to wander,
This beginning has been quietly forming,
Waiting until you were ready to emerge.
For a long time it has watched your desire,
Feeling the emptiness growing inside you,
Noticing how you willed yourself on,
Still unable to leave what you had outgrown.
It watched you play with the seduction of safety
And the grey promises that sameness whispered,
Heard the waves of turmoil rise and relent,
Wondered would you always live like this.
Then the delight, when your courage kindled,
And out you stepped onto new ground,
Your eyes young again with energy and dream,
A path of plenitude opening before you.
Though your destination is not yet clear
You can trust the promise of this opening;
Unfurl yourself into the grace of beginning
That is at one with your life's desire.
Awaken your spirit to adventure;
Hold nothing back, learn to find ease in risk;
Soon you will be home in a new rhythm
For your soul senses the world that awaits you.
~ John O'Donohue, from Benedictus: A Book of Blessings
Dalkey (Hawk Cliff)
Less than an hour from Dublin by DART (and a short walk), Dalkey is a beautiful coastal town with beaches and swimming spots. The water was around 14.6 degrees celsius = 58.28 degrees fahrenheit, and absolutely worth the cold plunge. We walked from the DART station to swim, and then into town for seafood and lobster at Ouzos before grabbing some ice cream and taking the train back.
Dublin
We spent a week in Dublin, exploring the Botanical Gardens, Phoenix Park, museums (including the Museum of Archaeology), the riverfront, and more. Theo and I attended the 3rd International Conference of Possibility Studies with the theme Cultivating the Possible: Reimagining Education and Society where he presented on the role of Artists, Scientists and Business in Reclaiming A Sense of Wonder. Keynotes for the conference included Robert J. Sternberg, Roni Reiter-Palmon, Kim Wilkins and more.
While in Dublin, I celebrated by 35th birthday including a delicious dinner with Theo at Monty’s of Kathmandu, a traditional Nepalese Restaurant.
A few shopping spots I enjoyed:
The Collective Dublin (jewelry from Irish creators)
Siopaella (clothing, bags, accessories - vintage and pre-loved designer)
Dopl (shoes including Rick Owens).
Dining spots:
We met up with friends for dinner at Glas, a vegetarian pre-fix restaurant where we had one of the best desserts I’ve tasted in a long-time. It featured fired apricots, 3 types of sweet potato, ice cream and more! (Note: Presentation was beautiful, but this was not a super filling meal as someone who eats hearty portions and lots of protein.)
Brunch at The Washerwoman was delicious, including the black pudding (Traditional Irish dish also known as “blood sausage” usually made from pork or beef blood, pork fat or beef suet, and a cereal, usually oatmeal, oat groats, or barley groats). Theo had the steak sandwich that was quite good as well!
Sprouts, with multiple locations was a quick and yummy lunch while out shopping. I recommend the Middle Eastern Chicken salad.
Lunch at The Ivy on Dawson was one of the best meals we had in Dublin. From the truffle arancini to my salmon and smoked haddock cake with a poached egg and pea puree. Delicious!
Traditional Irish meal at John Kavanagh The Gravediggers was a great way to experience some delicious local nosh. Founded in 1833, the pub is still in the Kavanagh family who were welcoming and described everything on the menu as “gorgeous” which we loved.
Dublin Airport:
When departing, Dublin is one of the only international airports where there is US Preclearance with customs, which means you don’t have to wait in line in the US to clear customs, get your bags, re-check them, etc. Super convenient. The day we traveled, American Airlines check-in/drop off of checked bags didn’t open til 6am, US Preclearance didn’t open til 7am, and the terminal for our flights didn’t open til after 7:30am - our flight was at 9:30am. Line began forming at 5:30am for American Airlines bag check/check-in. If you only had a carry-on and check-in online you could have go ahead through the preliminary security to wait for US Preclearance to open before 6am.
Westport and Clifden
Our Airbnb in Wesport was a loft on the 2nd floor and looked out over the countryside and was a few km from town. While in Wesport we also went horseback riding.
Our Airbnb in Clifden was a beautiful two-bedroom cottage behind the main house, with horses roaming the yard and lush greenery surrounding it.
The weather throughout the two weeks was unseasonably wet, with rain every day. We had a few days with multiple hours of sun, but otherwise, it was pretty cloudy and often quite windy.
